Kyoto: Where My Heart Belongs

Almost Famous: Kotoha, A young, high rank maiko named Kotoha makes her to the big party at the Ichiriki teahouse after the main procession of Yamahoko Junko last July.

I'm headed to Kyoto for Jidai Matsuri: The Festival of Ages. I haven't been to Kyoto since July(way too long) but here are some of the photos I took during the summer and never got around to sharing. Enjoy!

A young, first year maiko on her way to an appointment during Gion Matsuri. Geiko still use traditional, oiled paper umbrella in the rain and snow. This was my first time actually seeing a maiko or geiko use one. Breath-taking. This is also the first image taken with my new camera (^-^)/ I'm still learning how to use it. Non-stop pouring rain ＋ fast moving maiko = a great learning experience! The blur helps conveys the hustle and bustle of the crowded street, the young maiko rushing through the crowd to her appointment, and the dreary, dripping rain. It looks ethereal, like a scene from a dream, which is exactly the way I felt when I shot it.

Eyes Wide Closed: Gion. A geiko making her daily communte through the streets of Gion. Geiko wear wigs called katsura, with almost no ornamentation (compared to maiko, who style their own hair, which is adorned with many kanzashi, or flowered ornaments). Of course she blinked the exact moment I pressed the shutter, but what a perfect face.

A young geiko waiting outside the Ichiriki Teahouse in Gion with her client. Customers pay about $200 dollars an hour for the privledge of spending time with geiko (kyoto dialect for geisha), but having money is not the only requirement. Customers must have a relationship with an ochaya, a place where geiko entertain, in order to make an appointment, and being introduced to an ochaya is no simple task. The refined manners of Kyoto dictate that charging a customer at the end of the night is a no-no. With bills often running past 5,000$ a night, Ochaya must have a relationship based on trust, so that they can rest assured that the bills that they send to their customers once a month will be paid.

Two maiko make their way through the busy streets of Gion, sheltered from the sweltering summer sun by their umbrellas. Daytime casual: No white makeup, no heavy silk kimono. Just cotton yukata and lip gloss (^-^). I've never seen a maiko with a western umbrella before (right). Interesting. Also love the way the two older women watched them pass with awe, reverence and pride.

It is a Japanese custom for women to cover their mouths when smiling,laughing, and even sometimes, speaking.　This young maiko was laughing as she talked with her friend, which is as she talked with her friend, which is why her hand is raised just so.

An older "sister", an accomplished and high ranking geiko, accompanying a few younger maiko, or apprentice geisha, to a tea ceremony held at the famous Ichiriki Teahouse. The way the older women on the right hold themselves, and the sensual way they touch themselves, even in such a casual way....

UTATA Spotlight!

One of my images from Cambodia has been put "In the Spotlight" by Utata. For anyone interested in photography, Utata offers inspiration, information, and positive community of like-minded artisits. Check it out!

Undoukai: FIGHT!

Scenes from the Beautiful Mountain School's Sports Festival \(^o^)/
Fight! The Red Team`s Trendy Takayo makes team spirit fashionable with an English twist on the classic sports festival hachimaki (headband). Running in the rain is no reason to be be kawaikunai yo!

Good form!

Student president Shin cheers on his teammates during the crucial Senshu Relay, in which the runners are elected by their team members based on their speed. Not only is he fast (he comjpletely lapped the rest of the runners in one race), he is also thought to be the cutest guy in school, because he "looks like a foreigner." He got the highest test score in the school, and he`s good at English, too! Go Shin!

The White Rabbit: an event in which the lightest teammate is forced to risk his life running on the backs of his friends as they race around the track. Once the 'rabbit' successfully passes over them, the other kids race to the front of the line and assume the position until they have covered half the distance of the track. Sound dangerous? It is! The poor red rabbit fell down 6 times before finally breaking his ankle and being replaced.

The 3rd year students special event, the "Chain Gang Escape." Ichi ni! Ichi ni! Us teacher^types got cool *staff* shirts with Kitunchu, written on the back, supposedly the Okinawan dialect for people from Honshu. The top character 北、means north. The lower character, 人、means person.

Note that both of their legs are tied together, as well as to the people behind them. Events like this emphasize acting as "one heart" and "one mind."

Whtie team may have one, but Terrible Takayo, Yo Yo Yuya, Shin-chan and Kaz got nothing but love for each other. Peesu!

My girls! Natsuki, Ami, Mio, Takayo, and Ami.

Another %$#&'$ speech! For God`s sake please stop talking! Its pouring, and my bento awaits!

Hip hip Horray! Yuya is flung into the air by his loosing teammates. No tears! For the first time in 3 years of undokai, no tears! Its all good at the beautiful mountain school!

Kids Just Wanna Have Fun

These two cutenesses lived at the small temple, and came along to join the fun with the monks and I. The young boy will probably enter the monkhood when he is old enough (usually about 13 years of age).

This little boy was pimpin' his blue pinstripe pajama set...

His little sister seemed quite comfortable in her matching blue striped PJ pants, but opted for a more feminie,yellow top (with ruffles mind you).

Not to be out done, big bro felt the need to bust out the shades.

Aren't they both beautiful? So full of joy, even without the latest fall pieces from the Abercrombie & Fithch Kids fall collection, a new Play Station or a TV.

Kids (Even Monks) Just Wanna Have Fun

Hey! Who's taking the pictures here? My new friends lead me through the lush jungle to their secluded forest temple.

Tucan Sam-uth!

Smiling as he showed me around the temple grounds. Little buddhas everywhere!

Ah the joy of digital cameras!

Looks like there's a budding photographer in their midst...

In the process of wrapping himself up in his brilliant orange robes.

Symphony in Stone and Saffron: Bayon

I met this beautiful young monk at the Bayon.

We spent a lot of time hanging out at the temple, trying desperately to communicate in gestures and smiles, before they invited me back to their little temple hidden in the forest.

Apsara Dance

Classical Cambodian ballet is a stunningly graceful, 2,000-year-old blend of sinuous hand gestures and sensuous body movements, all deep with meaning. The graceful movements of the Apsara dancers, adorned with brilliant gold headdresses and colorful, silk tunics and skirts, are carved on the walls of many of the temples at Angkor. Estimates are that there were 3,000 Apsara dancers in the 12th century court of King Jayavarman VII.

Dancing holds great significance for the Khmer people, and the government considers the Royal Ballet in particular to be a national treasure. In the past, the classical dance was the Royal dance, performed only before kings to commemorate their dynastic ancestors and to honor the gods.

The Apsara tradition was devastated by the Pol Pot years. Dancers were killed in large numbers as symbols of bourgeoise excess, and only a few instructors survived to keep the ancient tradition alive.

Until I can embed it, you can watch one of my videos of the dance here.

Smiles of the Bayon

I met this young monk at the Bayon, and spent the rest of the afternoon playing with him and his friends at their small pagoda in the forest. My best memories(and photographs) of the temples of Angkor are of the people I met there. As amazing as the temples are, they pale in comparison to the beauty and resilience of the Cambodian people.

Yeay Bayon, or Grandma Bayon. If you've been to the Bayon, chances are you may have seen this beautiful old nun hiding in one of the many chambers, inviting visitors to burn incense before a small idol of the buddha. At 75 years old, Yeay Bayon a rarity in a nation recovering from the brutal legacy of Pol Pot and civil war.

A young Apsara teacher shows off her soft hands and beautiful smile. A single mother with 3 children, she left her husband after he repeatedly beat her, spending what little money they had on alcohol. Now she supports her children by singing at a local Apsara dinner theater and teaching. At 28, she says she is too old to dance. "Only young and beautiful girls can dance for tourists." I didn't get to see her dance, but she invite me to hear her sing. Hopefully I'll be able to get a video of the Apsara performance up soon...

The Land of Eternal Smiles

Just 2 of the 216 enigmatic faces keeping watch over the Bayon, Angkor Thom.

A manifestation of King Jayavarman VII`s mystic Buddhist beliefs, the Bayon is a spiritual experience. Built in the 13th century, it was the last state temple to be built at Angkor, and the only one to be built primarily as a Mahayana Buddhist temple. From each of the survivng 54 towers, standing in the center of Angkor Thom, the kingdom's capitol, the enlightened grins of the Boddhisattva Avalokitesvara, one of the most worshipped divinities in Mahayana Buddhism and the kingdom's principal divinity, watches over the temple and out into the surrounding jungle. Carved in the likeness of the King himself (his portrait is known from other sculptures found elsewhere in Cambodia and Thailand), these enigmatically smiling faces portrayed the King as god, symbolizing his omnipresence and omnipotence.

When Chou Ta-Kuan visited Angkor in 1297-98, Bayon's towers were covered in gold, which was stripped by later conquorers. While Angkor Wat was kept from the ravages of the jungle by Buddhist monks, Bayon was forgotten- left to the mercy of nature. Four and a half centuries took their toll...

Experience a little bit of the Bayon for yourself, here.

Unforgettable: The Children of Ta Prom

Things I will never forget: La's smile.

I've been putting off this post because I realized I am missing the CD of pictures I took at Ta Prom and the Bayon. I kept hoping it would magically materialize in my bookbag or under one of the many piles of junk accumulating in my apartment, but deep down, I know exactly where it is: On a computer in a Siem Reap interent cafe. (ioi) Saddness. At least I have my memories, and a comforting feeling that I will see these children again.

The way Ba scrambled up and over the crumbling ruins of the temples without any shoes.

When I first met Ba, he was hiding behind a moss colored sandstone wall, crouching among the piles of stones thrown down by the crushing roots of the Banyon trees. Like me, he seemed to be hinding from the few remaining tour groups rushing through the temple grounds, hurrying behind tour guides leaving echos of Spanish, Italian, French, Japanese and German echoing through the quiet courtyard. I sat alone in silence for awhile before I noticed him peaking out at me, only to take cover when I looked up at him. I began playing a game of peek-a-boo, which brought an adorabley beautiful smile to his dirt-smudged face. It was getting late, and the last of the tourists had long since passed through our secret courtyard, but I wasn't quite ready to leave this beautiful boy all alone.

"Are you hungry?" I asked, assuming he'd understand an exaggerated gesture of me scooping food into my mouth. He giggled. "You. Me. Yum yum?" He shook his head no and climbed back up on the rocks. "Oh, come on Ba! (We had been though the name and age formalities) I know your hungry! Let's go!" He scrambled up over the rocks and disappeared. I was sad to see him go, and sat down on the rocks again hoping he'd come back.

It didnt take long before he reappeared, popping his head out of a darkened doorway with his two friends La and Run close behind. He pointed at me, I assume telling his friends something along the lines of "This is that strange foreigner I was telling you about," although I cant be sure because it was in Khmer. "Come on!" He called to me smiling, ushering me into the darkness with the wave of his hand.

The way Run repeated everything I said, and then busted out into laughter that echoed through the temple courtyrads and chambers.

They led me through the shadow-filled halls of the temple, through tiny cracks and holes showing me hidden apsaras immortalized in stone. Through a small opening of tumbled stone they led me to a narrow chamber, pointing out the small, strangled head of a buddha peaking out through the tangled tree roots. The guided me through the temple laughing and playing with me, smiling all the way, trying their best to communicate in any way they could.

The pure joy of playing.

Getting to know the children: talking, laughing and playing with them. Learning about their lives, their families, their hopes and dreams...

Being able to make them smile so easily, and hearing them laugh.

By the time we left the temple it was almost 6 O' clock. I asked Ba, La and Run where they would like to eat, and they led me to a small stall staffed by a single woman with a huge smile on her face. She spoke very good English, and I told her to give the boys whatever they wanted. A small crowd of children had gathered around me, and were looking up at me with big, hungry eyes. "Madame, yum yum?"

"How much for these kids, too?" I asked her.

"Hmmm," she thought, perhaps struggling to choose between the chance to make a killing off a foreigner or help feed the children. "7 dollars."

"7 dollars? For how many kids?" Looking behind me the crowd had grown considerably. I opened up my wallet. All I had was $12 lousy bucks.

"Hmmm...12 kids."

"How many are there here?" I asked, trying to number the beautiful little faces swirling around me. She shouted out numbers in Khmer to the children, checking to make sure no one was counted twice.

"26." She announced when she was sure she had counted right.

"26?!" I frowned. " I have 12 dollars. Look. I swear its all I have!" I showed her my empty change purse, pulling out my pockets.

"Hmmm..." She thought to herself, looking around at the kids.

"How can I choose only 12 of them?" I asked her, with sincere tears welling up in my eyes. (I swear Im not usually this emotional). "You do it. I cant choose."

"Ok. Ok." she smiled after a long silence. "Khmer price. 12 dollars, everyone eats!" Khmer price or not, sounded like a deal to me.

26 of the children from the nearby villages get ready for some yum-yum (^-^)/

My Friendly Ta Prom Tour Guides

Da, Ba, and Run, my friendly Ta Prom tour guides, show me the secret (well, not so secret) chamber of doom! Well, not so much doom per se as echo and vibration. Sorry. When I talk about Ta Prom, the Indiana Jones inside gets a little carried away.

When I go back to Cambodia, I'm going back to Angkor just to see these kids again...