Finding the Philosopher's Path

Kyoto Rewind 2008: April 3, 2008

A view of the great gate of Nanzen-ji through a lacey veil of cherry blossoms. Nanzen-ji, or the Southern Mountain Temple, is thought to be the most famous and important Zen temple in the world.

Located just outside of Heian Shrine, Okazaki Canal connects the Lake Biwa Canal network with the Kamo River.

A ride on a the canal is a great way to view the cherry blossoms.

Walking the streets of Kyoto, somewhere in between the grounds of Nanzen-ji and the Philosopher's Path.

This stoney, sakura-lined path leads to the gate of a private residence we stumbled upon as we wandered towards the Philosopher's Path.

The entire estate was well hidden, surrounded by a wall offering only a glimpse of gardeners grooming the highest branches of the pine trees, shaded by magnificent clouds of cherry blossoms.

Peaking over the low hedges encircling the entrance.

Bamboo blinds and cherry blossoms provide shade and shelter.

The philosopher himself!

Absolutely one of the best places for hanami I've experienced so far. Highly recommended!

A young girl in kimono smiles beneath the canopy of blossoms covering the path.

A couple admires the blossoms.

The palette of spring paints the Philosopher's Path is subtle shades of pink, green and yellow. Light filters through the intricate lace of cherry blossoms, falling like the brush strokes of an impressionist masterpiece. Is it really any wonder I love Kyoto?

Shirakawa Hanami: Kotoha and Takahiro

Kyoto Rewind: April 2, 2008


Kotoha, a senior maiko of Gion Kobu, smiles beneath the cherry blossoms lining the Shirakawa stream.

No cultural tour of Kyoto would be complete without a proper maiko sighting, so half-way through our hanami party in Maruyama Park I led my friends down to Gion's Shirakawa district. Shirakawa-Minami-Dori is one of the very few areas of Kyoto where you can really imagine what the old capital must have been like before the twentieth century onslaught of 'modernization'. Lined on one side by magnificent cherry trees and whimsical willows on the other, the carefully paved lane follows the Shirakawa stream through the traditional teahouse district. Across the shallow waters of the Shirakawa, teahouses and restaurants hide behind bamboo blinds, peak through shoji screens, or gaze out through wide glass windows.

Kotoha laughs with Takahiro as she smooths her carefully styled coiffure.

With this timeless, quintessentially Kyoto backdrop, the city's tourism association had invited two maiko (or apprentice geiko), to make a come out and enjoy the cherry blossoms, giving the many tourists that flock to Kyoto in the spring the perfect photo op. Imagine my excitement when the maiko were two of my all-time favorites: Takahiro and Kotoha. \(^o^)/


Takahiro takes a rest beneath the cherry blossoms.

My enchantment with Kotoha set off a bit of a debate between my friends and I. I couldn'd help but comment on how stunningly beautiful I thought she was, but they were quick to disagree. To them, Kotoha seemed 'cold'. They were much more drawn to Takahiro's sweet expression and dimpled smile. Only Kachi Sensei, my friend and former colleague, and her 11 year old son agreed with me.

Takahiro has a certain child-like charm, with warm, friendly features and an adorable dimpled grin. With her long, slender neck and graceful limbs, she is an excellent dancer, and to be honest, I couldn't take my eyes off of her during Miyako Odori.

Kotoha, on the other hand, would never be described as child-like. Her features are striking. While Takahiro has "the (Japanese) girl next door" appeal, Kotoha is exotic. Even amongst other geisha, she stands out. Always perfectly poised, she looks noble, dignified, and refined. Her fey expression makes it seem as if she is above the concerns and cares of the ordinary, lost instead in the infinite beauty of the 'flower and willow world'.

As different as they are, the truth is that Takahiro and Kotoha are my favorite of all the Gion Kobu maiko. It's their differences that make them stand out, giving them a unique appeal. They are both beautiful, talented young women, and I look forward to seeing them turn their collar and blossom as full-fledge geiko. Ganbatte, girls! I'm cheering for you!

Notice Kotoha's feet. Perfect.


Takahiro adjust Kotoho's dangling darari obi.

Kotoha stands near the memorial to the poet Yoshii Isamu. Engraved on the rock is one of his most famous verses:

"No matter what they say,
I love Gion.
Even in my sleep
The sound of water
Flows beneath my pillow."

Higashiyama Hanami: Kiyomizu Bound

Kyoto Rewind: April 2, 2008


Sanju-no-to, the three story padgoda of Kyoto's Kiyomizu Temple, pierces a powder blue sky through a veil of cherry blossoms.

Just as the cherry blossoms began to reach their height in Higashiyama, the scenic eastern mountain distict nestled between the historic Gion district and growing waves of verdant hills climbing slowly to the sky, my friend Abbey, my brother and I were joined by the very lucky Londoner who ascended the Ena ALT throne, along with my favorite JLT (Japanese language teacher) and her adorable son for a bit of hanami and a brief Kyoto Cultural Heritage Tour a la me!

Since London P had never been to Kyoto, our first stop, after breaking the fast at Starbucks in Gion, was Kiyomizu-dera, the Temple of Pure Waters. I am a firm believer that it's not the destination, but the journey that matters. Half the fun is getting there! So instead of heading straight for the temple or hopping a bus, I led our little group through Yasaka Shrine to the Ishibei-kouji, or Stone Wall Lane.

The narrow, covered wooden entrance to the Ishibei-kouji is cleverly hidden and hard to find, if you don't know where to look. Most tourists walk right by without giving it a second glance.

A curious couple snuck a peek up the dimly lit alley way, then turned around a left without exploring its well-kept secret.

Emerging from the darkened tunnel, you are greeted by wonderfully aged wooden walls and traditional architecture.

The stone paved path leads through traditional Japanese inns, or ryokan, restaurants and residences. The classic Kyoto atmosphere of the Ishibei-kouji makes it a popular spot for tourists dressed as maiko and geisha to have there photographs taken.

Like elsewhere in Kyoto, traditional and modern co-exist.


The lane leads to Nene no Michi, near Kodaji Temple. This is where the ascent to Kiyomizu begins, along with the hanami.

Holding out his bowl with his eyes humbly lowered, a monk from Kiyomizu begs for alms, chanting silently along the ascent to the temple.

UNESCO World Heritage designated Kiyomizu-dera, the Temple of Pure Waters, is one of Kyoto's most popular tourist destinations.


As the main temple of the Hosso sect of Buddhism, it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times in its twelve centuries of history, most recently in 1633.

Kiyomizudera is said to have been constructed from 778 by Enchin, a buddhist priest, in honor of the Kannon Bosatsu (Bodhisattva of Mercy and Compassion).

According to the legend, Enchin received a vision that said he would find at the source of the Yodo river, a clear source of water. During his search Enchin came across a hermit named Gyoei. Gyoei, an old ascetic priest gave Enchin a piece of wood inhabited by the spirit of Kannon, the lord of compassion and goddess of mercy. Carving it into the likeness of the boddhisatva, Enchin enshired it in a small thatched roofed hut, the humble beginnings of the now impressive temple complex dominating the verdant Eastern hills of Kyoto.

The legend says that the hermit disappeared, and when Enchin later discovered his sandals on top of the mountain, he realized that he had actually been speaking with a manifestation of the Kannon.


A young foreign couple poses for wedding pictures beneath the cherry blossoms.


Hundreds of ancient-looking Jizo statues spring from the lush moss carpeting the slope. One of the most beloved of all Japanese divinities, Jizo intercedes to ease the suffering and shorten the sentence of those serving time in hell. In Japan, Jizo is popularly known as the guardian of unborn, aborted, miscarried, and stillborn babies, as well as patron saint of expectant mothers, children, firemen, travelers, and pilgrims.


Women in kimono snap photos of one another on their ketai (cell phones).


Looking up at the cherry blossoms surrounding the three story pagoda.

Garbage removal the old fashioned way. Sights like this are common elsewhere in Asia, but very rare in Japan.


Nestled in the hills of Higashiyama, Kiyomizu's famous stage offers an excellent view of the city and surrounding green.


Enjoying the cherry-blossom-veiled view.


Visitors often rub icons of the Buddha or other religious figures for good luck or healing powers.


A young monk happily helps a boy get his taste of the Otowa no Taki, Feather Sound Waterfall, the three streams of which are said to promise love, longevity and wisdom. The visitor must choose one.

This author of this enma, or wooden prayer plaque, is hoping for a championship showdown between my hometown Hanshin Tigers and Chunichi Dragons.

I'm wishing that next spring will find me back in Kyoto, surrounded by sakura.


The pagoda peeks over heavy clouds of sakura, dripping with silken petals which flutter to the surface of the reflective pond, blanketing it like freshly fallen snow.

A view of the main stage of Kiyomizu-dera, floating in clouds of sakura ( and supported by 139 timber pillars). The unique Edo period tradition of jumping off the stage in hopes that one's wishes would come true was attempted by 234 people, each documented in the temples records. Surprisingly, 85.4 percent survived! The Japanese equivalent of the English expression, "to take the plunge", is actually "to jump off the stage of Kiyomizu."

I love Kyoto!

They love Kyoto!

Kiyomizu-dera is just one of many reasons why!

Kyoto 2008 Rewind: Let the Hanami Begin!

March 29th: My First Day Back in Kyoto

Sleepiness is no excuse to stay in bed when there is sakura to be seen!

As I've said a million times before, Kyoto is my happy place. I could go there any time, in any season, for absolutely no reason, with nothing to do, and I would be happy just being there. But Kyoto in the spring is a different beast altogether.

Experiencing Kyoto in the spring is hard to put into words. It's as if the city itself is a geiko, veiling herself with snow white sakura and soft, subtle shades of pink cherry blossoms, accented with brilliant crimson camelias, adorning herself in all the riches of spring for her biggest engagement of the year.

Cherry blossoms line the Kamogawa River, leading the way into the heart of Kyoto.

A bike ride beneath the cherry blossoms gracing the banks of the Kamogawa River and Kawaramachi-Dori.

One of the reasons I love Kyoto is because of it's walkability. Most of the time I spend there, I spend walking. I usually don't have much of a plan. I just go wherever the day leads me. Since we had just arrived in Kyoto the night before, we couldn't wait to get out and see how far along the blossoms had bloomed, and revisit all our favorite spots.

Taking a rest to listen to the sounds of the Kamogawa beneath a lovely shidare-zakura (weeping cherry).

A couple debates which way to go outside the newly renovated gate to Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gion-san.


Two young women in colorful kimono on the steps leading to the gate. The girl on the left is unmarried, which is why she continues to wear the long sleeved furisode kimono. The short sleeves of the young lady on the right signify that she is indeed off the market.


Married women chat inside the temple grounds. Behind them, hundreds of poor fortunes were tied to ropes in a hope that the visitors might be able to leave there bad luck behind.

An unlucky fortune tied amongst the cherries inside the shrine.

Special lanterns hung in Gion announcing the up-coming Miyako Odori, the annual spring dance of the Gion Kobu Geisha district.

A popular hanami spot in Maruyama Koen (Park).


Two ladies try to get a shot infront of a beautiful weeping cherry.

My brother and I on Tatsumi Bashi (Bridge) over the Shirakawa stream in Gion.

When my brother tried to get a picture of me on the bridge, a small group of Japanese tourists gathered around to snap a few, too. These guys even asked if they could get a picture with me, first with their cameras and then with their cell phones. "Bijin da ne!" (You're a beauty, aren't you!) Um, not exactly boys, but arigatou! Did I mention I love Kyoto?

Many people dress in Kimono for cherry blossom viewing, especially in Kyoto. Ketai are the camera of choice!

If you're going to wear kimono, you may as well go all the way! Many tourists dress up as maiko or geisha to sightsee and have souvenier pictures taken. Most of the "geisha" people see during day are actually just tourists playing dress up!

A young girl tries to get the perfect sakura shot with the help of her mother and older sister. I read somewhere that during a lifetime, the average Japanese person takes approximately 7,312 pictures of cherry blossoms.

It's also true that the size of a Japanese person's camera seems to increase proportionatly according to their age. Here a bunch of ojiisans (old men) snap away at the sakura.

Kimono-clad hanami along the Shirakawa.

The monument in rememberance of Yoshii Isamu, the poet and fellow Gion-ophile whose poem is engraved on the rock: No matter what they say, I love Gion. Even in my sleep, the sound of water flows beneath my pillow.

More coming soon!