We Met Takahina!

Kyoto Rewind: March 29th, 2008

Takahina, Gion's youngest maiko (as of March 29th, 2008) makes her entrance.

Before Takahina entered the traditional, tatami mat room, we took our seat at low, black laquered tables set in a U formation along three walls. The Okami-san, proprietess and manager of the okiya where Takahina lives, called Takahina to join us. Even before she made her entrance, we could hear the hushed rustling of silk and a soft, tinkling chime, perhaps from the dangling metal strips of her hair ornament.

When she finally appeared, emerging from a long dark corridor, everyone gasped, our breath stolen by the sheer spectacle of it all: Her breathtakingly beautiful kimono, the glittering gold thread of her obi, the stark white veil of her makeup beneath a halo of laquered black hair crowned with colorful slik flowers and shimmering silver tassles. Even apart from the exotic extravagance of her regalia, her sweet, subtle grin, delicate features and slender neck, all highlighted by her hair, makeup and dress, made quite a pleasant impression. Introducing herself in a charmingly child-like, high pitched voice, she bowed low, on her knees with her head almost to the ground, asking us for our favor. Yoroshuu otanomooshimasu!

Showing off the elaborate yuzen design of her luxurious, long-sleeved silk kimono, subtly shaded in the sweet pallet of early spring. Yuzen is a textile process that combines a mixture of freehand paste resist and painting, which may also include stencil and shibori work. The decorative flexibility possible with this combination of techniques is unsurpassed. Designs are initially outlined in paste resist, and dyes are then applied to give subtle gradations of tone. Both delicacy and lavishness are characteristic of yuzen, as are traditional themes and decorative designs. Embroidery and gold leaf are sometimes elements of yuzen composition.


Her hair, drawn up in the fashion of young maiko, known as the wareshinobu, compliments her long, slender neck, painted in white save for a fork of bare skin leading down to the risque plunge of her kimono collar.


Ningyou-ke? Is she a doll? (^-^) Have I ever told the story of the child seeing a maiko for the first time as she walked down Shijo with her mother? "Mama, look! Is that a doll?" She squealed excitedly. "That's a maiko-san", her mother giggled. "She does look like a doll, doesn't she. Isin't she cute?"

Takahina was accompanied by her Okami-san, who quickly noticed my brother and I. "Well, well, Takahina-san, we have some foreign guests who were kind enough to come and see us. Now's your chance to practice your English. Do you remember anything?"

"Umm..." She thought for a moment.With and irresistible shyness, she slowly formed the words, carefully pronouncing each sound. "Wheea aa you from?" she asked, smiling nervously. As she raised the intonation at the end of the question, a point that is often stressed in junior high school English classes, she tilted her head to one side, the fluttering strands of her hana-kanzashi (flowered hair ornament) resting on her cheek.

Keeping everyone entertained, making us all feel special!

Of course Takahina danced for us, but I was too caught up in the experience of it all to worry about taking pictures. Sorry!

Takahina, my brother and I.

Maiko + Sakura = (^_^)

Someone looks happy! Clouds of cherry blossoms and a cute young maiko named Ichiharu make for one memorable hanami pre-game festivity... More on that later (^_<)/

Back In Kyoto!

Takahiro! Hisashiburi! It's been a long time.

Peace from lantern-lit Miyagawa-cho! (*^_^*)v

Just checking in to let everyone know that after a few excellent days in Ena, we've finally arrived in Kyoto! Despite what these images might imply, we did not spend our first evening here chasing geisha, but we couldn't help running into them everywhere we went! The cherry blossoms are blooming, and hanami season, Gion's busiest, is in full swing.

Ichiwaka, one of the 13 new maiko that have made their debut so far this spring.


Takahiro, could you be any cuter?


Mamechiho
Konomi: Kawaii!

I Went to Tokyo...

And all I have to show for it are these silly pictures (^-^)/Ye Old Coot and I jumpin' around at Sensoji (Temple) in Asakusa.

Holy backpack, Batman! The Old Coot, The World or Bust and Mboogiedown go to Tokyo!


West Side represent! Chillin' with our homie the Emperor at the Imperial Palace.

Aaaand...
Which promptly inspired this puri classic...

Katsuyuki and I

My Last Elementary Visit

A thousand tiny paper cranes and books full of letters from my Oi Elementary students. Usually students write short messages on shikishi, but my 5th and 6th grade classes insisted they needed more space. Instead they wrote me letters which the teacher bound up into little books.

After bursting the flood gates during my last day at the Beautiful Mountain School, I knew my last day at elemntary would be tough. When I first came to Ena as an ALT, I visited 16 different schools. Usually I went to a different school everyday, which made getting to know the teachers and students very difficult. I mostly visited elementary schools, which was fun at first, but soon became very taxing. Often the teachers at the school forgot to prepare for my visit, without asking me to prepare something, and I was thrown into classrooms of almost 40 students with minimal Japanese and no teaching ability. Many times the teachers walked out, sat down and read a book, or stood in the corner , completely detatched from the chaos that would ensue.

For the past year and a half, however, I have been assigned to 3 main schools, including one elementary: Oi Sho. I've always loved it there. The teachers are kind and cheerful, helpful during and interested in the lessons, and the students are genki and adorable. Before I began my lessons there, the students would see an ALT maybe 2 or 3 times a year. I was fortunate enough to begin teaching there once a week, and the incredible progress the students made before my eyes astounded and encouraged me. I learned a lot during my first year as an elementary ALT, and from the start at Oi I planned my own lessons and activities. I was always in charge of the class, and the students always participated and enjoyed the lessons. I really began looking forward to my visits, even though I would continually stress about the lessons and activities I planned. Students would often come talk to me during free time, recess and after school, trying to use the English they had learned. I realized that just having an ALT in the school on a regular basis makes a huge difference to the students, motivating them to speak in English and giving them a genuine chance to do so. The relationship the ALT has with the students is the biggest motivating factor of all. If the students like the ALT, and feel close to them, regardless of how little interest they have in English, they will try to learn and use it.

My experiences at Oi Elementary have been some of the most challenging, rewarding and fun of my JET career. I'm so grateful to have had the opportunity to get to know the children there and to make so many beautiful little friends. I will never forget them.

The Oi's Outdoor Soji Crew, including the famous "Monkey Man" (front and center).

5th graders... 3rd graders...
2nd graders...

Puri ☆プリ☆ Explosion

I just finished a 3 1/2 hour Puri Marathon, beginning with 6 of my super-cute elementary school students (Special guest appearance by Abbey in Ena ) and ending with a chance reunion with aone of my favorite Beautiful Mountain School alumni. I think one of the things I'll miss most about teaching in Ena is knowing every child in the city between the ages of 3 and 17, and running into them everywhere I go. Then again, maybe not.

Shrine O' Love: Jishu Jinja

World reknown traveler Joseph (of Mary-and-Joseph-hand-puppet-theater acclaim) and I try our luck at Kiyomizudera's Jishu-jinja, decidated to Okuninushino-Mikoto, the god of love and "good matches". You can read more about Joseph's adventure in Kyoto here.

With less than a month left as a JET, I am: busy, sleep-deprived, and in denial. Ganbarimasu!

Did I Mention...

I got to meet Miehina ? (^-^)/

After a enchanting day of geisha dances, temple-hopping, hanami, and all-around enjoying Kyoto, I decided to take one last stroll through Gion and Miyagawa on my way home. I always walk in Kyoto, very rarely taking the bus or trains, and my favorite time to walk is late at night, after the tourists go home and before most of the residents go to sleep. The pleasantly paved lanes of the hanamachi, spotted with the glow of red paper lanterns, fill with a anxious silence, as if even the machiya are holding their breath, waiting for something magical to happen. Every now and then, an outburst of laughter or the sound of a shamisen wafts through the cool night air, betraying the sleepy wooden lattice facades that line the street. Then the sound of a smooth wood Japanese door sliding open, the soft tinkling of bells, and the hollow clop of okobo on stone as a maiko steps out of a tea house.

As I walked down one of the deceivingly silent alleyways I heard that tell-tale rumble of sliding wood, the soft, silvery jingle of bells and the sweet, clear voice of a maiko and shikomi thanking customers at the door. The young shikomi stood in the street infront of the Okiya, bowing and watching the two, silver-haired men stumble away. "Konbanwa!" I smiled as they passed. They stopped in their tracks.

"You can speak Japanese?" One asked, astounded.

"Well, I do my best." I said giggling.

"Why? How?" He asked, confounded.

"Well, I live in Japan. I teach English in Gifu..."

"Gifu? You teach English? This is amazing! Come! Do you like sake? Let's have a drink! Do you know geiko? I will introduce you to Kyoto's famous geiko!"

He turned in his tracks back towards the okiya where the young shikomi was still standing, no doubt shocked and scared by what was transpiring. She tried to look calm as the man explained to her that he was sorry but he would like to bring the nice foreigner in with him. The young girl looked confused and called for the mistress of the house, who came to the door and bowed down on her knees. Again the man explained that he would like to bring me in, and she glanced out the door at me, standing stunned in the street, unable to move or respond in anyway. I finally managed to bow and mumble a meager "sumimasen" before the second man urged me along, past the shikomi and into the door of the ochaya.

"This isin't an ozashiki, but atleast you can meet geiko!" The man laughed as he stepped from the from the entrance. I was still in utter disbelief that I had just crossed the threshold of an ochaya. I followed him into a small room where three other men sat at a low bar, Japanese style, chatting with the geiko Yachiho who was pouring one of them a beer. "We're back, and we brought a foreigner!" One of the silver-haired men announced, and everyone laughed. "Don't worry, she speaks Japanese," he added, and chorus of shock and admiration filled the room.

Yachiho was only with us for a short time before she was called to an appointment. She disappeared between a golden-rod noren adorned with the crest of the ochaya, and a shimmering, powder-blue kimono appeared behind it, dangling sleeves hung almost to the floor. I can't express my suprise and excitement when Miehina slowly appeared through the slit in the curtain, bowing and taking her place at the low wooden bar to introduce herself.

"What's your name?" One of the men asked "I've never met you before."

"Miehina dosu." She answered with a bow. The man introduced me, easily remembering my name and pronouncing it with ease, but for some reason he couldn't quite grasp hers. He asked her two more times before she pronounced it syllable by syllable for him. "Mi-e-hi-na- dosu."

I'm sure she wasn't bothered, as she handled it with exceptional grace and patience, but I felt compelled to school the man. "Haven't you heard of Miehina? She is one of the most popular maiko in the world...Literally. People know her all over the world. She has many fans in England and the USA!"

"Really?" the man asked with a sudden sense of awe.

"Really?" Miehina asked, with a similar sense of suprise.

"Why? Why is she so popular? How do people in those places know her?" Someone asked.

"Why? Do you have to ask? Look at her! She's so cute! She's tall and elegant, and she's a beautiful dancer. Haven't you ever seen her dance? Its so moving, like a dream! I'm so looking forward to seeing her dance in the Kyo Odori this year! Will you be going?"

"Well, I..."

"I'm buying my tickets tomorrow. Miehina, may I ask? When will you be performing? I hope I'll have the pleasure of seeing you perform!"

"Ookini, onesan!" She said with a sweet smile, and wrote down the days she would perform on a dance pamphlet. "I hope you can come."

"What's her name again?" The man asked me,grinning. "I'm going to have to write it down."

"You don't remember? You better write it down!" I said laughing.

"Well, you know her name, but does she remember yours?" He asked.

"Melissa-san dosune." She smiled.

"Yes! Thank you!" I said.

Happiness.

Oi Sho: A Happy Place

Energetic, Motivated, Smiley! The 3rd graders of Oi Sho. Do these guys look familiar? JAPAN!

It's so nice to be back at shogakko. Ah, elementary School. What can I say about Elementary school?

Well, I spent recess getting farted to death by 2nd graders, at which point the offenders piled on top of my listless body, tickling me to tears. It was fantastic--especially since they were fake farts-- which I then spent the rest of the day dodging in the hallways.

Other than that, I had only one class because 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 6th grade classes were cancelled due to some kind of incredible epidemic.

So this is how I amused myself.

(^o^) Oh my~! What is my hand doing? What has become of me?!?

Ichimame and I

Let's just say I had a very good weekend!

JUMP!

Somewhere in Nagano...

Am I prancing?

No. I`m jumping for joy, slightly over-excited about stumbling upon these snow-covered, terraced rice fields, the perfect excuse to take a break from the narrow, winding road we called "The Intestines".


Rockin` the macket (macket = man jacket) with my broken wrists. Yes it is a man`s jacket, and yes we did actually see a man wearing the same one on our trip to Matsumoto. No, I am not a man.

Nijia style! Hi-ya!

Abbey prepares for lift off...

Operation Explore Gifu: Inuyama

Hakutei-Jo, the White Emperor Castle. With less than six months to go here in Japan, and a rather willing amiga de viaje, I've been trying to make the most of my weekends by exploring something other than Kyoto: Gifu, my home for the past three years.

Standing proudly on a small hill 40 meters above the banks of the Kiso River, Japan's oldest original wooden castle keeps watch over the now concrete-covered plains and slowly rising mountains to the north. Below, hidden in the Urakuen tea garden (so well so that we did not find it), is the Joan tea house, considered one of the finest of its kind (which, for some reason, was brought from Kyoto in the 70's). Bushido, the way of the warrior, and Sado, the way of tea, have always existed side by side. The great warrior Toyotomi Hideoshi, who unified Japan and brought an end to the warring states period, once said that a fine tea cup was worth more than his castle and all its men. Of course, he also forced his loyal retainer tea master to commit suicide. Luckily we don't have to choose the castle over the cup, or commit seppuku if we never find the teahouse. With a little planning and a few directibles (also known as directions to those who speak proper English) we can have our matcha and drink it too, with time left over to savor the soba.

I should start by saying that, I have been extremely spoiled. The first Japanese castle I ever laid eyes on was Himeji, the king of Japanese castles. Once you see Himeji, everything else is just kind of, well, maa-maa. What remains of Inuyama castle is small, as are the castle grounds, but a slow and slipperless climb up the steep, unequally spaced steps is well worth it!

Key word being "slipperless".

Gifu: A River Runs Through It. The Kiso River, that is. From the wrap-around balcony of the main tower, you can see it cut gracefully through the concrete covered plain as it makes its way to Ena (as seen in the picture of my beautiful mountain school: top right, under the page header).

Abbey Sensei braces herself for the brutal winds from atop the tower. Fly away Abbey! Be free!

Brilliant red torii (shinto's spiritual gateways) and crimson banners line the entrance to a small inari shrine at the foot of the castle.

Ema (from e:絵 meaning picture, and uma:馬, meaning horse) are small, colorfully decorated, wooden prayer plaques sold at shinto shrines for about 500 yen. After writing their wishes and prayers on the back, people hang them on racks in hopes that the kami (gods) will read them and grant their blessing. The pictures on the ema also have meaning. These were bought by junior high school students hoping for good scores on their high school entrance exams.

Happy Chinese New Year everyone! Inoshishi: The Wild boar.